Jose Crisales-Unzueta: I feel like JW has gone crazy with ideas.
Laird Borrelli-Persson: What ideas do you see?
JCU: I like the continuous experimentation in trompe l’oeil. The exploration of the denim skirt that started last season with the coats is interesting. And things like the hinge on the hoodie, I think, are interesting evolutions of the ready-made household objects/themes he explored.
LBP: This collection should sell well. It has bling and unexpected details that will elicit compliments. Simple. T-shirt/jeans/hoodie. The modern wardrobe, a little offbeat.
Steff Yotka: Both JWA and Prada revamped classics today. Obviously I’m a fan of Jonathan, but I think we miss the autobiographical details….. Rembrandt and a little blond boy eating an apple in the same collection. Rembrandt painted dozens of self-portraits, what does this season’s portrait of Jonathan say?
LBP: It looks like a collage or collage (portrait) rather than a clear. Do you think we’re heading into post-camp territory? I think there really is a “new normal” to the 50s idea of what was “normal”, it allows for more individualism and inclusivity.
JCU: Normalcy is constantly being redefined on social media based on context. What normal clothes and uniforms are for me are not the same for someone else….
LBP: That’s true. Although it must be said that the tropes we see: picnic, bike, board, cd are quite generic…
JCU: Re: after camp. There’s something to note about how camp was almost a secret code in the Sontag years. It was needed as an underground code within queer subcultures, as an identifier and a refuge. This is not the case today. Camp is overt and mainstream, making it almost kitsch rather than camp. People have also twisted the definition of camp post-Met. Sontag said talking about the camp was betraying it, and that’s exactly what we did.
LBP: In terms of wardrobe, I think jeans, t-shirts and hoodies are staples in all walks of life. What do you think?
JCU: Right! But that’s what contributes to the multiplicity of definitions of normality, isn’t it? And I think that’s why we’re seeing this wave of designers like Demna, Jonathan, and Glenn Martens exploring normcore to the extreme – how unusual can you make normal? It’s still jeans, but it has two belts, it’s still a sweatshirt, but it has two collars, etc.
LBP: So post-camp in two ways, post what it meant at a time when homosexuality wasn’t/couldn’t be overt and was more specific language and post-Met camp and dress code.
LBP: What SY says about the autobiography is also very interesting. I think it comes even more in the new generation. JW Anderson is more of a post-modern designer to me.
Check out the rest of the JW Anderson Spring 23 collection here.